Bread is pretty much a universal food item, with nearly every cusine having a bread (if not every, struggle to think of one that doesn’t, albeit some more than others) at its heart. Think French baguette, rotis, pittas, naans, tortilla, injera, pumpernickel and focaccia, to name but a few. Even non bread focussed cuisines (China, Japan and Korea come to mind) have things like mantous, bings, baos and shokupan.

In the Middle East, flatbread is really central to the cuisine and these in turn are  the mainstay of the new offering at the Boneyard by Lahmacun in Canton/Victoria Park area of Cardiff.

The menu looks rather enticing, with a mix of sandwiches (I am sorry but I really, really hate the use of the word “sando” outside of very specific Japanese circumstances)

and a variety of Levantine style toppings to go on their cooked to order base flatbreads.

There is also the promise of hot lunch specials

with reference to the likes of beef shin tagine and saffron chicken and pomegranate stew right up my street.

As such plenty to entice me down to the Boneyard.

On my first visit, the lunch specials had not kicked in and it was outside of the flatbread hours.  I was, thus, limited to the  sarnies on said initial visit.

Both of those on offer certainly sounded interesting, with a lot seemingly going on in each

I saw the falafel one on the pass as I was about to order,

and it looked nicely loaded. I was, however, intent on the simit bagel number,

even though I am often a bit wary of njuda. First, njuda is a strong flavour that can overpower and, secondly, there was a time when it was on/in bloody everything (hot honey anyone). As such, I hoped for a light touch so the other flavours could come through particular as I am a big fan of fennel salami and who doesn’t love a dill pickle.

What arrived was a fine looking beast

The njuda was there, but was more a background heat with the fennel salami  and dill pickle providing a nice hit of anis. A mix of cheese (mozzarella, halloumi and feta) added rich, tangy, saltiness and the pickles brought acidity as well as a pleasing crunch. The simit bagel itself was light with a good crisp crust amplified by a liberally sprinkling of seeds on the top.  Good lunch time sarnie this, with a really nice combo of flavours

A had a decent coffee ( flat white – £3.70) with it, with a need to nip undercover as a shower passed over (there is plenty of both open to the elements and covered space).

A second visit brought rather more clement weather

and the flatbread menu into play

The lamb bagine (£9) immediately appealed with organic Welsh lamb, sumac onions, lemon and mint promising a potentially heady combo of flavours on a crisp flatbread.

For the flatbreads you order at the bar and then take you receipt across to another station

where you get a buzzer which ring when your cooked to order flatbread is ready.

My flatbread was a nice looking number,

with the base having a nice crispness as well as that sought after chew.

Cooked bob in I would say (and as an Ooni, used here, owner myself that is easier said than done).

As to the toppings, the initial layer of minced lamb was nicely spiced. The star of the show, however, was the sumac onions which brought a lovely citrus acidity as a counterpoint to the richness of the lamb. A squeeze of lemon added nicely to the mix, with a scattering of parsley bringing fresh herbaceousness and a touch of pepperiness.

The flatbreads come with a choice of dips (garlic or, I think chipotle and you can have both should you so wish).  I went for just the garlic, which was nicely potent without that astringency you sometimes get. Great for dipping the flatbread crust in.

The bar top showed off a couple of rather fine looking desserts,

which were very tempting (I passed, but next time).

On the booze front, there have a short but interesting list

Not often you see a Moldovan chardonnay/riesling blend or a Moldovan saperavi on a list and both seem to be very fairly priced. A quick internet search found the saperavo at £16+ a bottle and the chardonnay/riesling blend for £15.99. As such a list price of £30 for each here is very reasonable for the UK (see it can be done).

I decided on a cheeky glass of the Moldovan red (125 ml/£5.80),

which was loaded with sweet cherry (and a touch of the medicinal on the back palate i.e. benylin, but in a good way).  Worked well with the lamb bagine.

The verdict

Another good edition to Canton/Victoria Park’s burgeoning food scene (very much looking forward to the Pig & Swill opening in the next couple of weeks), with a rather good food and drink offering. Ideal spot for lunch or indeed dinner.

I do like the championing of British ingredients here

in terms of a very Middle Eastern food offering.

Lahmacun is a rare good thing born out of lockdown

and I can really see this place coming into its own as the warmer months arrive. Here’s hoping for a sunny Bay bank holiday weekend (although they will probably tell us to stay indoors to stop us spontaneously combusting if the Sun actually comes out). 

The promise (on their Istaamaaaaazingram feed) of summer BBQ is a very enticing one based on my experience of the open flame offering.

I really hope that do well in what seems to be a tricky spot. The food and drink offering suggests, all things being equal, that they should.

The details

Address:  Paper Mill Rd, Cardiff, CF11 8DH

Website: https://www.facebook.com/share/1CNJbkWayy/

Opening hours: