It has been a while since I last did a wine post (actually this is only the second one this year, with the other being my round up of the best wines I drank last year post back in January), which I am sure you have all been deeply upset about. The cries of “For the love of Bacchus, where are the wine posts?”

have been almost deafening at times 🙄.

I have had a few relatively popular (well it is all relative isn’t it) posts recently and this wine related one should operate to bring balance back to the force (they usually go down about as well as a pork chop at a bar mitzvah, so “L’ chaim” if you are reading this and “Ale tseyn zoln bay im aroysfaln, not eyner zol im blaybn oyf tsonveytung” if not).

Since said last wine post, I have been made (I wouldn’t say I exactly volunteered – case of not paying attention and thus failing to have a ready baked excuse to hand at the right time when everyone else did and being dragged, kicking and screaming to be tied to the post by the treasurer) the chair (or as I like to call it “Supreme and Most Exalted Leader or “Tim the Merciless“)

of the Cardiff based Mystere Wine Club (the foolish people).

My first acts as “El Presidente” were to immediately purge all non sherry drinkers and institute the new member “Can you name at least 100 Rioja bodegas?” test.

To date I have only had to order the summary execution of a couple of members (the non sherry drinkers – expulsion just didn’t seem enough).

Of course I didn’t do any of that as all lovers of wine, regardless generally of what wine that is (Yellowtail, Barefoot and Blossom Hill excepted – if you like them then good for you, but the Mystere is possibly not for you I would posit and I doubt very much such drinkers would have much, if any, motivation to join tbe Mystere or indeed read this) are welcome at the Mystere (once you get past our waiting list to join and have paid your dues).

As it happens I don’t really have any dictatorial tendencies (takes too much effort to be honest, as I don’t have any fingermen to do the dirty work) and so far things seem to be ticking along relatively smoothly (mainly due to people much more organised than me).

This brings me, in my usual very roundabout way, to our June tasting which was a rare all white affair, with riesling (old world, from Germany and the Alsace, rather than new World, being the theme). Be still your beating heart dear reader(s) 🙄.

For those in the know, this is a line up that promised much.

You have to probably be my age or older and be a German riesling fan (not that big an overlap in a venn diagram of Cardiff’s or indeed anywhere’s inhabitants for those two I suspect) to get this post’s title. For those that aren’t, it’s a rift on the Ian Dury and the Blockheads’ “Reasons to be cheerful, Pt 3” number, with the GG an abbreviated reference to “Großes Gewächs”. GG in turn is the German term for dry, single-variety wines from Germany’s leading vineyards, known as Grosse Lage. Up to my usual standard I think (i.e. very low or sehr dumm as the German’s would say). As the saying goes (well the one I just made up), if  you want to buy a decent riesling put your money on the GGs

I love the wonderful versatility of the riesling grape, with it ranging across the full spectrum of wine styles from searingly dry to gloriously sweet and pretty much everything in between. As a grape with almost boundless versatility, I drink it (particularly the German ones) far less than I should and this tasting was an ideal opportunity to try a few (at the higher and dryer end of the riesling spectrum) I haven’t had before.

Prices shown are the latest retail rather than prices the club paid (often a lot less due to judicious buying by wiser committee/club members than I).

Wine 1 – 2019 Schloss Johannisberg, Silberlack Riesling GG, Rheingau

I just love the labels on certain German wines, which are art works in themselves. This one is just lovely, although understated compared to some.

These labels are indicative of German gothic exuberance rather than efficiency and as such rather in keeping with this wine I think.

2019 was a very good vintage (94 points) so this promised much.

Lovely rich yellow colour to this wine,

with a nose of citrus (lime peel and orange) as well as a touch  petroleum.

On the palate, it had a beautifully intense minerality,  with zesty citrus and spice. There was also a creamy character to the long finish, with a lovely acidity making it really refreshing.

What a start this was!

Price: £44.95

Wine 2 –  2018 Donnhoff Riesling Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl GG

A much more restrained label here

and I would say a more restrained, less exuberant, wine. This seems somewhat at odds with the general sentiment as to the 2018 vintage which suggests wines from that vintage are rich and ripe with approachable GGs.

Pale lemon colour,

with lovely limey notes, as well petroleum, mineralty, lemon zest, a sea salt salinity, orange oil and flintiness.  On the palate there was a touch of white pepper,  honeydew melon and layers of fresh citrus. 

It seemed to me that this was more akin in style to an Alsace wine.

On balance I preferred the first wine with this just a little leaner and more restrained (but small margins here).

Price: £51.99

Wine 3 – 2015 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs

The 2015 vintage is very well regarded  (96 point), with near perfect conditions across the growing cycle.

Slightly darker colour to this wine.

Würzgarten translates to “spice garden” and is the name of the vertigiously steep vineyard where the grapes for this wine are grown.

So spice by name and spice by nature? Well yes actually.  On the nose there was a distinct hit of ginger, a real spiciness (cinnamon) and floral notes which were (to me at least) more reminiscent of a delicate gewürztraminer rather than a classic riesling.

On the palate there was a big hit of tropical fruit, with mango to the fore, as well as melon and stone fruit (peaches). Touch of spritz too and refreshing acidity.

Very nice, but quite different. Not convinced I would have correctly called this out as a riesling if tasting it blind (but, then again, I am a crap blind taster).

Price: £72.66

Wine 4 – 2017 Wittmann, Kirchspiel, Riesling GG

Last of the German wines and what a wine this was. Oddly my on the night notes are not great for this, which I put down to me enjoying the wine so much.

The 2017 vintage brought challenges (weather related) resulting in a significant reduction in the crop. One to stick with the top producers apparently. Seems we were in very safe hands here.

Lovely deep colour to this

On the nose there was a squirt of fresh lime juice, the perfumed citrussy zest from the peel of a jara Bangladeshi lemon (bought one prior to the tasting from new Canton Food Centre because it looked interesting and oddly it came straight to mind here – I win maximum ponsey wine note points for that I reckon), peach and lots of aniseed herbs (the more subtle chervil rather than tarragon – really racking up the ponsey wine note points here) and a touch of petroleum.

Kirchspiel is, as I understand it, a cooler vineyard and this was perhaps reflected in there also being a distinct minerality and ever so slightly smoky aromas to this wine.

On the palate there was ripe stone fruit juiciness (nectarine), polished minerality, robust structure and a great balance of acidity.

A streak of perfumed lime oil lingers on the tongue for an age.

Complex, aromatic and elegant, this had it all. Quite possibly the best white wine I have drunk this year.

First time trying a Wittmann wine (they have only been around since 1663, so clearly a relative newcomer hence its novelty to me  who has been around – well feels like it – a lot longer😐) and it won’t be the last that is for sure.

Price: £64

Wine 5 – 2018 Riesling Clos Häuserer, Domaine Zind Humbrecht

Moving over to France and the Alsace, it has always perplexed me that this is really  the only wine region in France where riesling can be found. Odd, but boy do they excel at this grape!

The 2018 vintage was a hot one in Alsace, with the rieslings stated to have less acidity due the the heat. Can’t say I noticed that lack of acidity with this wine.

Nice golden colour to this wine.

On the nose there were quite a lot of floral notes, with hay and chamomile followed by white pepper, ginger and just a touch of  aniseed. Less fruit than I was expecting on the nose.

On the palate subtle salty notes met a lively acidity, but the fruit was again less abundant than expected with only tinned pineapple coming to the fore. Lacked the richness of the German GGs, that it preceded.

Price: £32

Wine 6 –  2016 Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé, Gran Cru, Domaine Louis Sipp

The 2016 vintage was adversely effected by rain (causing mildrew) in June and this wine perhaps reflected that challenge

Much lighter colour to this wine

The nose was very Rose’s lime cordial (which was a surprise), with grass and other herbaceous notes then coming through. This was followed by a touch of petroleum.

On the palate I found it all a bit neutral. Touch of white pepper and stone fruit, but all quite taut and austere. Finish here was also a little short.

My final note on this wine was “lacks complexity“. My lowest scoring wine on the night. Disappointed a bit, albeit in a high class field (I mean I wouldn’t moan if someone bought me it, actually I probably would because I’m like that).

Price: £32

Wine 7 – 2012, Trimbach Riesling Cuvee, Frederic Emile

Only made in vintages where the producer thinks the quality is good enough, the  2012 vintage doesn’t actually get an overall stellar score (90 – still think it is mad that 90/100 is regarded as only OK).

Nice colour to this wine, with a golden hue

On the nose it was initially quite tropical with aromas of pineapples, lemongrass, followed by green apples, lime and white blossom, followed by spice.  Lot going on here with each sniff bringing something new.

The palate followed the nose, with the intensity of the fruit building in the mouth and it having a beautifully refreshing acidity.

Quite a lot of slatety minerality here.  Great balance to this wine.

In my top three on the night.

Price:  £54

Wine 8 – 2010, Riesling Shoelhammer, Hugel

2010 seems to be a year to stick to the top producers (i.e this one), with Francis Robinson stating that:

“Lower yields than 2009, by about 20% overall. Quality is heterogenous thanks to some chaotic weather patterns, meaning that selectivity is the key to finding the best wines“

This wine comes from the top (as in best) vineyard slope of Riquewihr, otherwise  known as Schoenenberg.

Again nice colour, which was lighter than the GGs. Hay with a tinge of apple green I would say.

On the nose it had bags of fruit (peaches),  floral white flowers (jasmine) and honey  with wonderful touch of tidal aromas (wet shingle) and a hit of petroleum.

On the palate it was deep and rich.  Spicy with a bags of candied citrus peel, stone fruit and touch of honey and nuts. Really concentrated it almost gives you sensory overload there is so much going on and it just keeps on developing in the glass.

Great length to this wine and a lovely acidity. Very moreish stuff and my joint top scorer (with the Wittmann) on the night from me

Wow this is some wine and with only 2268 bottle it made for a rare treat.

Price: £102 +

The verdict

Very high class tasting this, which emphasises the benefits of being a Mystere Wine Club member. You get to taste wines of this quality at the fraction of the price and share them with like minded people. People have different tastes and my views on certain wines often wildly diverge from the consensus of the group, but in this instance everyone was blown away by the sheer quality and joy of drinking these wines. Only the Louis Sipp number slightly disappointed and that was probably due to it being in such amazing company.

In terms of the top three on the night, mine (unusually) mirrored that of the whole tasting group and was as follows:

• Third place – wine number 7 – 2012 Curvee Frederic Emile, Trimbach;
• Second place – wine number 8 – 2010 Shoelhammer, Hugel.
• First place – wine number 4 – 2017 Wittmann Kirschspiel GG.

It was really close between the Shoelhammer and the Wittmann, with the later just giving that tiny bit more pleasure overall (and, as it happens, being quite a bit cheaper).

£35 to taste such good wines (decent pours too) is some bargain (have to be a member though – currently full, but I can put anyone interested on the “list“).

Our July tasting looks to be a pearler being Ribera del Duero lead by your’s truly.

The 2006 Vega Sicilia Unico is going to be interesting that is for sure. Will it live up to the hype and it’s very hefty price tag🤔?