During our enforced (and increasingly seemingly ruinous, especially for small businesses –  who’d of guessed!!!) periods of lockdown, one of the places I use to get takeways from (with sit in banned) was Mattancherry in Canton, Cardiff. The actual place Mattancherry, from which this Canton restaurant draws it’s inspiration, is perhaps the antithesis of being locked down, with it being a ward of Kochi in  Kerala renowned as a location where travelers and traders from across the world were drawn (due to it being a hub for spice)

Rather shamefully I haven’t actually visited the place (the restaurant in Canton rather than the place in Kerala – would absolutely love to visit the latter) for a sit down meal since. Not sure why, as the menu is right up my street in terms of the cuisine and price point. Perhaps it’s location at the city centre end of Cowbridge Road East has been the issue, with me being a lazy sod and rarely foraying past Oriel Jones that way.

Regardless of the reason, J and I decided to go to Canton for lunch. Our intention had been a kebab at Mira, but they were closed (despite the internet say they would be open – hate that, but suspect many places can no longer afford to keep opening at lunch time). Our second option was Sen Bros BBQ, but they hadn’t opened at the time, so we needed an alternative. I suggested Mattancherry saying they do a good takeaway, but I had not tried them for a sit in meal. J was the same, so we decided to pop our “eat in” Mattancherry.

Nice space inside,

with a very engaging front of house. Shame (and a sign of the times) that we were the only people in there at 13.30 on a Friday (a table of 3 did come in as we were finishing up). I can see why restaurants are increasingly limiting hours they are open, as if you can’t cover your ever increasing running costs, why would you!

The menu looked good for lunch, with lots below or not far above the £10 mark

Despite having eaten very well the night before at a great value Italian themed wine dinner at Moura, I was quite hungry. I, therefore, went for the “exclusive” thali (£13.50) with J ordering the masala dosa (£8.50). We decided to share.

The thali was a fine looking beast,

although not sure why it was labelled as “exclusive“. Regardless, it certainly hit the spot nicely.

The dhal had a good consistency, being the right side of soupy/stewy.  Nice level of spicing, with a bit of chilli heat without blowing your socks off. What really made it, however, was the imbued flavour of curry leaf, which gave it a really nice fragrancy.

Both the chicken curry and the veggie curry were nicely spiced, with tender well flavours chunks of chicken in the former and a preponderance of, that flavour sponge, potato in the latter.

The accompaniments were well made and generously apportioned. The parotta had a appropriate flake too and performed its curry mop up role admirably.  The rice was suitably fluffy and the poppadum shards crisp (few things worse than a stale poppadum). A sharp lime pickle worked well, with the only slight disappointment being a rather dull raita (added little and nothing would have been lost by it’s absence), which lacked seasoning.

We had to wait a few extra minutes for the dosa, which seems to highlight the issues of kitchens in these trying times. The wait was due to the need to get the hot plate up to temp. for the dosa. Easy if you are busy and it is constantly in use, less so when you are quiet. It takes time to get the heat right, when there is only an occasional need for use.

Have to say it was certainly worth the wait,

with it being an absolute behemoth.

The dosa itself had a pleasing texture, with a good level of crispiness and was heartily filled with well spiced mash potato.

Of the accompanying chutneys, the best of the bunch was the middle one. A sambar, it had a tang of tamarind and nicely cooked lentils. The tomato based chutney lacked a bit of punch, as did the coconut and curry leaf one. 

A tad more oomph in both and a bit more (quantity wise) of the quite punchy chilli concoction by the dosa would have been nice.

The whole shebang was certainly great value for the £8.50 price tag.

On the drinks front, it is slightly disappointing they don’t have sherbets, lassis etc (was hoping for a nice mango lassi)

as I wasn’t drinking booze (if was would have probably have had a beer, as the wine on offer is a bit uninspiring – the chenin is probably your best bet if you are).

I settled for a pint of mango juice (£3.95),

which was undoubtedly from concentrate (shame that, but reflective of the price I suppose).

Verdict

We enjoyed our lunch here, with (for the most part) good flavours, good portion sizes and thus good value. It certainly deserves to be busier of a Friday lunch time

If you haven’t been before, it is worth popping your Mattancherry by way of a visit (with plenty of parking in the vicinity). Every little helps at the moment and dear Lord does the hospitality industry need all the help we can afford to give it these days.

Shiny and new is great, but we should not forget the old stagers and I am going to say it again (because it remain true) if we don’t use them, we will lose them and our towns and cities will be all the poorer if that happens!!

Details

Address: 153 Cowbridge Road East, Cardiff, CF11  9AH.

Website:  https://mattancherry.com/