A lunch time melmastya- Afghan Zaika, Grangetown, Cardiff

As the blog is very much a diary for me as to what I eat and drink (the good, the bad and the ugly and there is always the opportunity to have a good moan and I do love a good moan), I like to spread my wings cuisine wise rather than simply ticking off the latest “best evah” “insane” (how on earth did a dangerous state of mentally illness become a metaphor for a good thing – I blame the bloody Yanks) new openings. This had led me to experiencing the delights of both mandi (not the somewhat dubious, it seems, ex – ambassador to the USA, Lord Voldermandy) and injera recently and following that theme I spied an Afghan place in Grangetown with a menu that seemed to eschew the usual kebabs and mix grills.

Kabuli Pulau, the national dish of Afghanistan, made for a rather intriguing mystery lunch item to someone as unfamiliar with Afghani cuisine as me (thank the lord for the Internet, such a boon for introvert people like me who tend to be more reticent in asking/engaging in conversation with people I dont know – I am not a people person by any stretch).

The post title alludes to the Afghani tradition of melmastya, which requires offering hospitality to strangers no matter (pretty much) what and without any expectation of reciprocity (as a tight fisted introvert this is pretty much my idea of hell).

This is a philosophy that is seemingly rather well suited to the hospitality industry and one that may surprise many a Brit with all the negative news about Afghanistan over the years and us (the Brits and indeed many others) having been effectively chased out of the country on numerous occasions going back to the 18th Century (the first Afghan War, cumulating in the claminous retreat from Kabul of 1842 – it seems melmastya does have its limits) and, more recently, the ignominious retreat back in 2021.

The place is what I would call functional and that is being pretty charitable.

Not a date night venue, for sure, but fine for a quick in and out lunchtime foray.

The menu on display was a tad misleading

as they seemed to not have a lot of it on (certainly at lunchtime, not sure about the evenings)  but I was only really after the kabuli palao and that was on.

This is a mix of rice, carrot, raisins and lamb, with a hefty whack of an Afghani spice mix comprising of cumin, black cardamon, clove and cinnimon.

As it was being served up  I looked on in increasing incredulity at the portion size as large spoonful upon spoonful was piled onto the plate. Just when I thought surely he isn’t going to put any more on, he paused for just a tad and then resumed his piling on exercise. A fine expression of melmastya in action, I thought.

As I surveyed my Hindu Kush level of elevation mound of rice studded with grated carrot, raisins and lamb,

yet more food arrived in the form of a flat bread

and a kidney bean stew.

In terms of the pulao, the buttery rice had a very good flavour from both the spice mix and (I think) it having been cooked with (lamb) stock. The carrot and raisins brought a pleasing sweetness, with the latter plumped up (again) with (lamb) stock.  No real heat here, but a pleasing levels of spicing with cardamom and cumin to the fore.

The lamb/mutton/hogget (bone in) had clearly benefited from a bit of very low and slow cooking and was easily teased away from the bones.

Good flavour to the meat too.

The bean stew comprised of a good load of buttery soft kidney beans in a tomato based sauce/gravy and had a distinct smokiness to it. Not sure where the latter came from as recipes I have seen for Afghan red bean stew/lubya only mention cumin and coriander on the spicing front.

Regardless it was very nice, especially when the bread provided was dipped in it.

On the subject of bread,

this was along the lines of a roghni naan, although a bit drier than I would expect.  As indicated, it was good dipped in the lubya but a tad dry on its own.

The mountain of food defeated me eventually, but it wasn’t for the want of trying as it was all very tasty. A very good and fulsome lunch, I would say, which meant I had no need for dinner that night.

The verdict

It isn’t the most inviting of places for a sit down meal, with only a few covers, with I suspect takeaway the main driver, but the food was very good.  Both tasty and filling.

The real kicker here, though, is the price. My mammoth plate of kabuli pulao with lamb (never a cheap meat), a big bowl of bean stew, a large piece of bread and a can of pop came in at a mere £11 in total. For the quantity of tasty food that got me I regard it as more than a bit of a steal.

Some may be put off by the 2 star hygiene rating, but the place was very clean front of house and I had no issues with the food hygiene.

This was my first try of Afghani food, and have to say it was pretty good. Less heat than Indian or Pakistani food, but nicely spiced I thought with very robust portions.

They get bonus points in my book for not selling chips. As I was scoffing my pulao two people walked in looking for a kebab and chips and were politely told they didn’t do chips. They admirably still sold them some food, with the front of house an adept salesman and a fine example of melmastya.

The details

Address: 43A Corporation Road, Grangetown,  Cardiff, CF11 7AP

Website: Couldn’t find one

Opening hours:

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